Rarely in Mexico

As our travels in Mexico come to an end we feel like a random review of our impressions is in order. We’d like to dedicate this one to our dear, often sarcastic friend, Brian, in honor of his brand new baby boy!

The following is a list of things that we “rarely” saw in while driving through Mexico, in no particular order.

• streets named Juárez, Hidalgo & Morales
• canoodling in public
• giant Mexican flags
• gringos being called “amgio”
• old men selling ice cream from little carts
• street dogs napping in the shade
• cocos fríos for sale
• lack of TP in public restrooms
• cows or goats taking over the road
• speedbumps
• police/military with semi-automatic weapons
• trash littered along the road
• being asked “Where did you come from?” and “Where are you going?”
• buying bottled water
• memorials/shrines to Guadelupe on the side of the highway
• foreigners trying too hard to be surfers or hippies

Ben rarely missing Brian Bohnert!

we're getting closer

As we drive further south into Mexico, it becomes more and more obvious that we're nearing closer and closer to Guatemala. Here in the highlands of Chiapas the cool temps and indigenous influence really make it feel that way. While there are subtle differences between San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico and Antigua, Guatemala, the overall general feeling of the two towns are quite similar. As far as we noticed, a major plus about San Cristobal is that there appears to be less tourists around.

the pedestrian zone makes for easy strolling

After our first evening of camping, we threw in the towel (I wasn't about to bathe in what they had to offer) and headed for Bela's cute B&B (thanks to Tom & Kelsey's recommendation). Bela has been a wonderful host and her B&B is in a great location, within walking distance to all that San Cristobal has to offer. We highly recommend checking her out if you're looking for a quaint, comfortable place to sleep, with the best breakfast and hottest shower in Chiapas.

Bela's B&B

We have spent our days visiting churches, touring local villages and partaking in some of the best shopping we've run into thus far. Ben even got to got to explore the countryside on bicycle.

we seem to have an affinity for visiting churches that require a climb

bright colors are everywhere

market art

In San Juan Chamula, a village about 10 km outside of San Cristóbal, we visited the main church where locals worship John the Baptist over Christ. The church is filled with colorful candles and smoke from burning incense. Although there are no pews, the floor of the church is covered with pine needles and medicine men are seen throughout diagnosing medical, psychological and "evil eye" afflictions. They perscribe remedies that involve lighting certain sizes and colors of candles, specific flowers & feather, and occasionally a live chicken. Families are seen kneeling on the floor with their sacrificial items, candles stuck to the floor with melted wax, drinking cups of Posh (a sugar can based liquor) while chanting prayerts in Txotzil. Additionally the town does not all outside pilice or military in the village. Instead they have their own police force.

San Jan Chamula

a more appealing hue

Following some pretty vague instructions that Kelsey shared, I dragged Ben off to a women's co-operative in a small village outside of San Cristobal de Las Casas yesterday, while returning from an excursion to San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantán. I think the directions were something like "get off in San Martín and walk to the right until you see the big white house." I must have been driven by my love for fashion, because I sniffed this place right out in a matter of minutes! After asking around, we found a young woman who led us right into the stock room of Jolom Mayaetik, where we were faced with thousands of georgously colored, woven textiles. Their work includes, shawls, tablecloths, placemats, cloth bags, tea towels, pillow covers, purses and more.

Translated as "Mayan Woman Weavers," Jolom Mayaetik is a co-op comprised of 250 women from 11 different communities in the Chiapan Highlands. Their work includes contemporary designs that incorporate traditional symbols and techniques. The majority of the women are trained in back-strap weaving, but some also embroider, use a pedal loom, and even sewing machines. Additionally they have organized themselves into a General Assembly to help make decisions within the co-op based on each community's needs. Being a co-op helps them to ensure that they receive fair prices for their goods and therefore betters the quality of their lives.

I agree with Kelsey in that many of the textiles here in Latin America, while very intricately made, are woven with colors that are not appealing to me. So of course, when I read about her findings, I was immediately interested in the dark purples and greens, with hints of turquoise that she described. Overwhelmed by all the choices we left with only a few pieces in hand, but after browsing the markets for the past few days, we're planning a return trip before leaving town.


If you're in San Cristobal and hope to check out this place, follow Kelsey's directions and keep in mind they are only open Monday-Friday, 9-3. Expect to pay prices higher than you see in markets, but it's quality work for a good cause. Cash only.

Tíos in Tuxtla

What do crocodiles, bulls and princesses have in common? Why Tuxtla, of course!

Upon arriving in Tuxtla Gutiérrez Friday afternoon, we were warmly welcomed by our new friends, Mario (Ben's new boss), his wife Kim and daughters Lilian & Megan. They invited us to their home, an oasis in the city, where we soon became known as Tíos (uncle & aunt) Ben & Krista! We had the best weekend, visiting Chiapa de Corzo, taking in a soccer game, eating delicious food, playing princesses, boating down an amazing canyon and even attending our very first bullfight! Thanks guys

Friday night after relaxing in Mario & Kim’s fabulous new home we all headed over to Chiapa de Corzo, a colonial town right on the outskirts of Tuxtla. We watched a bit of traditional Chiapas dancing, walked the plaza and then ate dinner at a very authentic Italian restaurant.

Chiapa de Corzo

Saturday Ben & I took a boat ride down the Río Sumidero to take in the breathtaking canyon, which also happens to be nominated for being one of new 7 wonders of the world! Vote here. Along with the huge canyon walls (that are over ft in some areas) we also saw several crocodiles and a spider monkey.

It was a hazy weekend in Tuxtla, as rainy season is just about to begin.

Basking in the sun

A Cristmas tree! During rainy season it's a waterfall too!

Later that day while the girls visited with their aunt, cousins, and grandparents, we stole away to attend a soccer match between the Tuxtla Juguares and the Moralia Monarchs.

We had great seats at the game!

Mario & Kim sporting their team colors

Having the time of their lives! (Sorry Kim, it was too good to leave out!)

Sunday proved to be a bit of a lazy day for us. While the family headed off to a birthday piñata (party) at Pizza Hut, we spent the morning catching up on emails and cleaning and repairing the Ecamper. Later that afternoon the girls once again went to spend some quality time with family, while we took in a bullfight! It was a first for Ben & I (and Kim too) and proved to be much more enjoyable than I would have ever thought. The interesting thing about this bullfight that may have eased my nerves a bit was that the bullfighters were kids. The star, Michelito, a Tuxtla native, was only 10 years old. He and his brother both fought as well as a teenage girl from Columbia.

the fighters - would you let your 10 year old fight a bull?

they hide behind the red box when they aren't taunting the bull

Kim made a good point when she said that because there were kids involved her sympathy went more toward them than the bull, but if the bullfighters had been adults, it probably would have been the other way around. Strange rationalization, but I agree. For those of you who don’t know the ins and outs of bullfighting, yes the bull does die. However, there’s quite a show, before it happens. After a bit of showmanship (waving the red cloth around) the bull is stuck with 2 shorter probes (I suppose to really make it angry), all the while a band plays traditional music. A bit more “dancing” around by the fighter, and soon a giant sword comes out. Before you know it, like a dagger to the heart, the bull is running around making crazy, wailing sounds, and eventually falls to the ground – dead. All in all we saw 4 bulls meet their maker. (But if it makes you feel any better, none of them looked very healthy to begin with). Olé!

Inhumane maybe, but an old Mexican tradition, for sure.

FYI: This video spares you the tragic ending.

Tuxtla Bullfight from Krista on Vimeo.

While Ben spend much of Monday meeting with the Aguas de Unidad staff and touring water systems in Tuxtla, I hung out with the girls and did girl stuff like decorating our nails and singing and dancing to Beyonce!

Lilian & Megan showing off their freshly decorated nails


Single ladies dancing

Feliz Cumpleanos Krista

So today marks the 29th year that you've been smiling, crying, and all around making us laugh. Always the absent blogger, I decided to put a birthday post on your blog to let you know how much you mean to me (and all of us). I'm not sure whether it's your spontaneity, your creativity, or your three-level laugh that I like best, but you find always find a way to brighten my day. So as part of my birthday gift to honor you, I'm posting some of the more memorable photos from our trip that didn't make the blog. Enjoy....and happy birthday!

One of your favorite side trips...
this was after hiking down to the bottom of Aguacero waterfall in the middle of the day

In better spirits, crossing the tropic of cancer in Baja Sur

After five hours of curves on the highway to Oaxaca (yes, you are Sure)

My all time favorite....
the night we discovered mozerella works for grilled cheese + laughs

Relaxing in San Ignacio after a long drive -
you were so happy to be near water and not need a fleece jacket

Aguas con sabor?

Here in Mexico (& Guatemala too) they tend to call all beverages except for beer, aguas (waters). It's gets a bit confusing when you really do want water and request agua in a restuarant. Generally you have to specify agua pura or agua natural (pure or natural water). For some reason or another only limonada (lemonade) and naranjada (orange juice-like lemonade) have their own names. And with these you also have to understand that they could be made with pure water or soda (Sprite), both being equally tasty. Anyway, all of this rambling is getting me to my bigger point. Along the lines of lemonade, "aguas" can be made from pretty much any fruit. One morning in Tuxtla, Kim whipped up a blender full of watermelon water and I've been craving it ever since! We stumbled into it again here in San Cristobal, this time with a twist of pineapple. Delicious!

Since I'm hoping she won't mind, I thought I'd share the recipe with you. I personally can't wait to try mixing it up a bit with lots of different fruits. Don't you think it sounds like a great way to ring in the summer months?

Watermelon Water
half a blender full of water
a bunch of watermelon chunks (sans seeds)
a handful of pineapple pieces (for the combo juice)
sugar to taste
a dash of fresh ginger (Kim's secret ingredient, if you so please)

Blend and strain (if you'd rather no pulp). Chill & serve!

Could bigger be better?

Although the frequency of our camping has diminished the further south we drive (we just can't find secure places to park), we still sometimes ask ourselves the age-old question, "Could bigger really be better?"



Sure they have lots of luxuries, like clean bathrooms, satellite television and the ease of being able to pull into a camping spot, pop up their awning and sit down to relax, there are a bunch of downsides to driving a big rig too. We don't imagine that they are even able to go to some of the little towns that we've been to - there's no possible way that those rigs can maneuver around the tight corners of the central squares. And forget about driving the windy back roads where all the scenery is - those guys have to stick to the highways. And we don't even really need to bring up the topic of "is that really considered camping?".

Putting all of our occasional envy aside, we often ask ourselves,
"Are they having as much fun as us?"

No way!